As we passed through south-eastern France, we began to leave the coastal plains and swamps of the Camargue on the Mediterranean behind. The hazy blue mountains of the Pyrenees began to rise up before us in the distance. We were headed toward the Sierra de Atapuerca in Spain to catch up with my family for my sister’s 60th birthday. I couldn’t help thinking how different the country, landscape, vegetation, people and culture we were seeing as we passed was to where I live in Oz.
I currently live and work in the Top End of the Northern Territory. Through living, working and hunting in remote areas of the Top End I have been lucky to have a little bit of exposure to the indigenous culture up here. Hunting is an integral part of that culture. I find it interesting that there is a general acceptance of hunting as a part of the ‘continuous culture’ up here for indigenous people that is not only widely accepted here but down south by academics and the general public, including that portion which is opposed to what is obviously thought of as ‘non-cultural’ hunting by ‘non-indigenous Australians’ (of which I am obviously one).
Recently I have been doing a bit of thinking about what is ‘culture’ and does this vary due to your DNA? Webster’s dictionary defines ‘culture’ as: the beliefs, customs, ways of life, ways of thinking, arts, etc., of a particular society, group, place, or time. I grew up in New Zealand where hunting was a big part of our family make-up or culture. My father and all of my uncles were mad-keen duck shooters as well as being partial to the odd feed of hare and rabbit shot from the back of my various uncle’s utes on farms in the Southland Plains. A few of my cousins also hunted deer. So, the participation in hunting, and the eating of game at family meals, was a big part of my family ‘culture’ as I grew up.
In the context of this, I had been really looking forward to spending a couple of weeks in Spain in late 2019 and learning about the country, its background and its wildlife. Most of my ancestry is Irish with a wee bit of Maori thrown in. But a recent DNA test for our family also revealed that there was also some Spanish or Iberian DNA in there as well. A bit of historical family-tree type research had revealed that the Spanish ancestry possibly came from a Spanish sailor that was part of an armada a few centuries back. Apparently in 1588 the Spanish felt they had had enough of the English shenanigans in the Spanish held areas of the Netherlands and the Americas. They had decided to give the Pomms a bit of a lesson through a good old-fashioned navy whip-arse and sent an armada to teach Queen Elizabeth the First and the Pomms a thing or two.
Unfortunately for the Spanish, the English out-thought them with a night fire-ship attack while the Spanish Armada was moored off Calais, France. The Spanish Armada was scattered with ships washing up on the shores of Great Britain from Scotland around to Ireland. Now the English overlords weren’t necessarily treating the native Irish all that well at the time. So to the Irish an enemy’s enemy wasn’t necessarily their enemy. Obviously, a few of the local Irish ladies, including one of my ancestors, must have thought the Spanish boys were a bit of alright and the rest is DNA and family history.
Anyway, back to last year. Before heading to Spain, I had done a bit of background reading on Spain and its pre-history really intrigued me. I like this sort of stuff, I did a couple of units at Uni. in anthropology and cultural anthropology 35 years ago and this aspect of history and pre-history still interests me today, especially in relation to hunting around the world Something that surprised me to learn was that Spain has some of the oldest human and hominid/pre modern human (that is, pre-Homo sapiens – ‘us’) remains and artefacts on the planet. Some of the caves there have remains that go back to the very beginnings of human and pre-human/hominid history. On top of this, this is a country that loves hunting and eating meat! So, I had planned to visit some of the archaeological sites and museums to have a bit of a look at human history and pre-history hunting artefacts (who knows some of them may have been handled by one of my ancestors).
Drawings of Megalocerus, which are also known as the Irish Elk, are relatively rare in caves. There are only 3 known such drawings in the cave sites in Spain and Southern France. Remains in caves and middens also indicate that they were only taken rarely. The most common deer hunted by stone-age humans was in fact the Reindeer which inhabited the tundras and grasslands of southern France and Spain during the ice ages.
But what I didn’t know as I was headed towards it, was that the Sierra de Atapuerca has a cave with human and pre-human/hominid occupation going back nearly a million years! As we pulled into the town there were signs and statues about the pre-history on the main street of this quaint little country town. It was going to be great to catch up with my fam-bam, but with this history/pre-history bonus thrown in, I thought to myself this was going to be bloody epic!
Next day, while walking down some lovely little country lanes and roads near Atapuerca taking in the countryside, looking for wildlife and clearing the head from the fine Spanish bierra and red wine from the night before (it not only tastes good, it is damn cheap, a dangerous combination if you are partying), I contemplated what this area had seen over the past million years or so. It had seen the first hominids (pre-human Australopithecus) and humans arrive from Africa and settle and live in the area. It had seen continuous occupation right through until today including periods, centuries, of rule by the Romans and the Moors. The whole timescale of it all blew me away.
The Sierra de Atapuerca and the people in it have also seen ice-ages come and go, warm inter-glacial periods and ice ages come back again …. and go again. All without social media and the main stream leftist media hysteria of ‘Climate Change’ – how did they do it? The pit at the Atapuerca cave site has seen human activity and occupation right from the earliest stone-age, bronze-age, and iron-age through to the modern era up until 1850! Now that’s continuous occupation and culture!
I wandered down to the Cultural Heritage Centre just outside Atapuerca and had a look at the displays and excavation site. Access is limited in the caves in these UNESO listed cultural sites, but they recommended that I go into Burgos, where there was a Museum of Human Evolution and also plan on visiting other cave sites where access is allowed. I took their advice and a couple of days later I was in Burgos and visited the museum, which I advise is a ‘must do’ if you are in the area. Not only are there amazing displays of what has been excavated at Atapuerca, including an 800,000-year-old axe head they think was used in some type of religious or burial ceremony. There was also a 1.3 million-year-old fallow (Dama) deer-type antler.
I wasn’t allowed to photograph it, (dang!). But it was good to look it and contemplate what it was, as an ancestor of current modern forms of fallow deer, it was a very simple antler – but definitely a fallow-type of deer. Who had hunted it, and how had they hunted it? With a spear by stalking in on it or have it driven past them? Later in the trip I saw school kids at a cultural centre in the Pyrenees trying their hands with a spear thrower very similar to what Australian Aboriginals still use, today in the Top End, the only difference I could see was the European spears have fletching on them.
Kids at an archaeological museum in the Pyrenees having a go with spear throwers. While I couldn’t understand the language, I could understand that they were having fun. A whole heap of it!!!! Note the 3D archery animal (Chamois) target in the background, there were quite a few of them as well as the paper targets for the kids to have a go at. Wouldn’t it be great to see the culture of hunting as part of education in schools in Australia outside of indigenous communities?
Looking at the antler I thought, how did it end up in the midden in the cave and finally what did the venison from the animal taste like after cooking it, over or in the fire? I bet after a hard days hunting in the cold ice-age grasslands and tundra, it would have been damn good to sit back by a warm fire with your mates, wives and kids and chew on a medium-rare backstrap. Just a damn shame it would be another million years or so before a good cold beer or red wine was invented or brewed for the first time to wash that venison down! Never mind, you can’t have everything, at least the kids wouldn’t be arguing over who wants to play what on the mobile phone or what movie they want to watch on Netflix for another few hundred millennia or so!
A couple of weeks later we were back down in the Pyrenees and visited another cave site and booked a tour into it. Numbers are limited, everyone must book and is guided through the cave. It is an IUCN site and to preserve the site the amount of time in the cave is strictly limited so that there is not a build-up of carbon dioxide which may negatively affect the rock art. You are also instructed not to touch the walls of the cave and possibly contaminate it. After going nearly a kilometre underground we were shown some very simple arrow-shaped and matrix dot paintings/rock art. It is possible these were painted by hominids that inhabited the area before modern humans (that is, Homo sapiens, ‘us’) arrived.
Another 200 metres on the cave system branched. The left branch ran down into a cavern that has a sand beach - almost a dune in it. On the dune, clear as day, are three sets of smallish human footprints that three kids left there … 16,000 years ago! Mind boggling stuff. I thought to myself, I bet their parents would have been really bloody annoyed to know the little buggers had gone off exploring (probably on a ‘go-on, I dare ya’ – kids are kids after all) in a cave, that was also used by giant cave bears and giant panthers who came to the salt licks in there. Their scratch marks are still in the walls of the cave today and they really are bloke-sized claw marks at that.
Footprints of three young kids who went exploring a cave in the Pyrenees, just as all kids anywhere are likely do. The only difference is remarkably these prints are intact and have been dated as 16,000 years old? Who knows what they were thinking. But, with the cave possibly inhabited by Giant Cave Bears and big cats, it would have been quite an adventure!
Back in the main cave we travelled until we were 1.8 kilometres underground and the cave opened up into a bit of an amphitheatre. The guide explained about the various paintings of bison, deer, ibex and wild horse on the wall. Most of the painting involved only one precise brush stroke on each feature of the animal, meaning that the artist probably had practised before coming to this site. Some of the animals had spears in them, obviously depicting hunting scenes.
A depiction of an Iberian red deer. The lines of the drawings are simple, elegant, but are to scale and the drawings look anatomically correct. Analysis indicated that each line was often a single stroke indicating that they had practiced the drawing before going into the cave to do it
What was ingenious at this site was that rock features were included into some of the pics. The ibex seemed to be standing on rocks and one picture of a bison doesn’t have a tail, but when you have a flickering light like a burning torch, the shadows make it look like the bison’s tail is moving or flicking – bloody genius stuff and this was up to 60,000 years ago! I was struck by the simplistic beauty of the drawings are and the fact that they are pretty accurate depictions of the animals illustrated. These guys really were skilled artists.
The guide turned out all the lights and it was pitch back and deadly silent. I couldn’t help thinking ‘Man those first guys who came in here must have had big kahunas!’ They went in knowing they could possibly come across a big grumpy bear or giant panther and all they were armed with was a spear or club to deal with the animal at very close range, that’s ballsy stuff right there.
Final Thoughts
I’m back in the NT now and when I look at the photos and think about what I experienced on this trip I wonder about the disconnect that is being foisted on us by organisations and sections of the community who do not understand, or oppose ‘recreational’ hunting by non-indigenous Australians. They either have no idea or consciously disregard hunting as being part of our culture. For most of us, it is part of our customs, ways of life, ways of thinking, that have been passed down through the generations to those of us that hunt and it is a component of our wider Australian culture today. In a society that celebrates diversity, acknowledges minority groups and ‘multi-culturalism’ it is time that this important component of Australian culture is recognised and given the respect that other parts of culture in this country are given.