With Robert Butterworth
It is a sad fact that many hunters leave the fillet in the field for the eagles, ravens and foxes. There are often valid logistical reasons for this but it is shame to leave the best cut of meat in the animal.
The fillets are tapered cylinders of muscle that lie against the inside of the spine beneath the kidneys. They can be obscured by the fat around the kidneys and are easily messed up by the less experienced. But with a little knowledge and care they are easily extracted and well worth the effort.
Ideally you will take the entire carcass home and dry age it for week in a cool place. The fillets are then one of the first pieces removed as the animal is broken down.
Butchery
Remove the kidneys and any fat from the inside of the spine. Carefully free up the end of the fillet that lies in the aitchbone or pelvis. Working with short strokes of a short, sharp knife ease the fillet away from the backbone, cutting with your right hand and supporting the fillet with the left (for the right-handed). The outside of the fillet will come away easily but the side against the spine will need to be carefully cut away around each of the vertebrae. Work all the way down to the other end where the muscle runs out. When the fillets are free trim the ends and remove any silver skin or connective tissue.
If you are going to attempt this in the field take a pillow case to keep the fillets clean for the carry out.
The Recipe
One fallow deer or similar fillet (about 180 grams).
Place the fillet in a suitable container.
Add 1-2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, ground pepper and salt flakes, and a sprig of rosemary, very finely chopped.
Marinate for one to two hours.
Remove from the fridge half an hour before cooking to bring it to room temperature.
Bring a frying pan to a medium-hot temperature on the stove.
Pour the oil from the marinade into the pan and allow the pan to come back up to medium-hot.
Fry the fillet two minutes each side, in one piece or cut to fit the pan.
Remove from pan and allow to rest for a few minutes.
Deglaze the pan with dry Oloroso sherry (or red wine, or white wine, gin or stock).
Pour the glaze on the meat.
Variations
Thyme or tarragon in place of rosemary.
Add red wine or balsamic vinegar for a bit of bite.
Use a tablespoon of gin and crushed juniper berries instead of herbs.
Use half a teaspoon of cinnamon powder and unsweetened cocoa in place of the herbs.
Add mushrooms to the glaze.
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