There isn’t much those involved in the deer debate agree on, but one is that they’re persistent buggers (the deer, not the debaters).

Whether it’s the rate at which they populate or the damage they do — they can be destructive, and that’s a fact. 

The question breaking the debaters’ unified stance on this fact and returning them to their mud-slinging ways, is this: How do we manage this ever-growing problem?

Culling is the current mainstream practice but raises the question about resource waste — a cringeworthy term to anyone in the agricultural industry. 

Jonas Widjaja with his limited waste ethos and his small business Fair Game Wild Venison represents a new way of thinking, something called nose to tail, or ethical eating.

Fair Game Wild Venison harvests deer for commercial consumption, providing a number of added benefits — aside from disposing of wild deer — including everything from food to the economy.

“This business is really an alternative to the other control methods, one that is able to use the meat for human consumption while still supporting struggling farmers and reducing environmental damage,” Jonas said.

“Ethical anything is important, and it’s being conscious and selective when it comes to the ethics behind the things you buy, the services you receive and the food you eat that drives change.

“The ethics behind Fair Game Wild Venison are layered. Animals live a high-welfare life as they have access to an enormous range; they feed on a self-regulated, natural and varied diet; and the deer harvesting occurs in the field, with no stressful live transport to an abattoir, and the requirements in terms of shot placement from the FoodSafe authorities ensures an instant and stress-free dispatch.

“Harvesters cannot earn if they have not made an ethical shot, and this stops anyone from taking a shot beyond their skills which could result in harming the animal.”

Jonas said his choice to focus on wild venison was because it was one of the most ethical red meats to consume.

“Wild deer are targeted as pests regardless, and without businesses like mine to ensure the meat and other resources are used, they would be destroyed and left to waste,” he said.

Jonas attributes his values around limiting waste to the influence of those around him. 

“I grew up closely with restaurateurs in Auckland who specialise in game meat and a nose-to-tail ethos.

“Growing up so closely to their values of no waste, and their respect for the animals we choose to eat, definitely soaked in — like they formed part of my marinade. 

“My own parents’ values formed most of the rest of the marinade’s ingredients that ultimately gave me the idea for Fair Game when I learned of the waste associated to deer population control.”

While not the driving force for his involvement with wild deer, Jonas’s appreciation for all food was furthered through his experiences with sustainable hunting. 

“I would say I have a short history with hunting, and to be honest, I’m pretty terrible at it, losing focus and thinking about cooking at camp and setting up the hammock under the canopy,” he said.

“I love it though and have gained a deep appreciation for all food through the practice of hunting. 

“Pulling the trigger is really emotional and comes with contradicting thoughts. My conclusion is if I choose to eat meat, I should be confronted with the fact I am eating animal parts. 

“Whether you grow animals or eat wild ones, the idea of any animal part going to waste is not nice. 

“It will always be very important to me to respect every animal taken.”

True to his nose-to-tail values, Jonas has partnered with Salumi Australia to produce a selection of salami available for purchase on his website. 

“Since deer numbers harvested week to week can vary dramatically due to the weather, it’s not always easy to find a market for all the meat,” he said.

“That’s why I collaborated with the very talented Salumi Australia to create an amazing salami, which makes use of any muscle meat not sold.

“I sell everything from muscle meat, offal, skins (fresh to drum makers or tanners), tanned hides, seconds of the tanned hides (to makers) and antler (also to makers).”

Aside from wanting to succeed at one thing really well, Jonas said his reasons for focusing on venison only were twofold. 

“I rate wild venison really highly in flavour, health and ethics,” he said. 

“There are huge personal and environmental benefits of eating other wild foods as well, whether hunted, gathered or foraged (especially if they are introduced and a pest), and I encourage people to research what else they can access and be open to trying new wild foods.”

Understanding the gap between game food knowledge and traditional forms of protein, Jonas has also made the effort to include culinary tips and tricks in a few recipes on his website for people who are unsure how to proceed with venison.

“It’s important to share some cooking guidance, as venison has not been readily available and many people are cooking it for the first time,” he said. 

“But, it’s not a meat to feel nervous about, it is super-tender, and the flavour is not gamey in the way many expect, but delicate and light.”

Jonas is currently working on more recipe collaborations to celebrate Australia’s talented game chefs.

Does this mean he’s still currently in business? Yes, it does.

“In all honesty, adopting our COVID-19 safety plan has not been that tricky,” Jonas said. 

“The support documents and industry-specific templates are supplied online and although food processing can be intensive, I’m still a one-man band. 

“I continue with my existing cleaning schedules, I have adopted contactless deliveries or make a record if I do come within one-and-a-half metres to someone, and for the few people that pick up on-site, hand sanitising stations are available and contactless pick-up is mandatory. 

“The business did struggle when the food service industry was shut down, but I didn’t have the added responsibility of staff and can only imagine the devastation when business owners could no longer support all of their staff.”

At the moment, Jonas supplies fresh products to New South Wales, Queensland, the Australian Capital Territory and Victoria with the food service being able to select single products and home cooks able to order mixed boxes offering customisable options or whole deer that are broken down. 

“I also have salami going to Western Australia and Tasmania,” he said.

Contact Jonas via info@fairgame.com.au or 0499 606 068. Find him on Instagram, Facebook @fairgamewildvenison or at fairgame.com.au

Photo credit - Elise Derwin.